Starlet off the road,RXS buzzing about the place.
New NCT laws state that i will get 5points on my license and probably a €1500 fine for not having an NCT. So it’s down the garden now, gotta fix it up with no money and either sell it or NCT it.
Why do custom builders have so much trouble with battery box’s?
Needed to get the positive battery wire up front now so, while it was chopped up i whipped out unnecessary wires.
Battery zip-tied in place, loom temporarily taped up.
Shocks have added a little height to the rear, quite happy with that.
So off i went drove it around the drive, can’t wait to get it out on the road.
Note the airbox? it’s just a tube i dug out of the garden, got a 48mm airbox/pod thing on the way along with the sava mc7 tyres. tube thing will be cut down to fit the airbox/pod thing on.
And with those steps forward, one step back is taken, there is another hole in the tank on the right side this time. once that’s glued up paint will be silver on the top fairings and a red frame with (probably) black wheels. What else? tail and head lights and brakes sorting out. Are they really needed?
RXS100 better rear shocks
Got em off ebay, 330mm, meant for a honda monkey bike, just pushed out the steel sleeves in the rubber bush’s and it was perfect.
Just slapped them on and got on with other things so i didn’t get a chance to fiddle, they might be adjustable, certainly you can add more nitrogen and more preload. Need to investigate what those blue knobs on the top of the reservoir are for.
Chopped of 6cm from each side of the bars and bolted on the new (heavy) bar ends, only a test drive will tell if they worked. also fixed up yesterdays welding on the upper fairing brackets, not a lot left to do.
1. Air filter, was gonna fit on a massive gokart airbox but the main frame spine would have to go. probably do it next year along with the 171 engine.
2.Electrics, need a really small 6v battery to hide some where and must cut out loads of redundant wires.
3.Tyres, can’t get tt900’s so will probably go for Michelin pilot sportys.(edit: looks like sava mc7’s are basically tt900’s)
4.Paint, i hate body work, bloody boring.
5.Lights, rear brake and head light.
And thats it, i’d like to move the foot pegs back more and shorten the fork legs but damn it the summer is here thing’s like rear brakes can wait.
RXS100 Sticking on a upper fairing.
Fairing trimmed, maybe some more to do, that front end had to come down it’s way too tall.
What battery? on the right rxs100, front honda c50, behind dt400. all 6v.
It took all morning to do this, much thinking about cables battery and instrumentation went on before I settled on this.
Battery will go in there just in front of the upright bit, still haven’t decided on which one tho.
Mounting fiberglass race bodywork
First bits on.
High?
Or low?
Decided on low then ran out of money and mig wire. and the road outside the house was closed. bumhats.
hour and a half later finally made it back and did this.
Note To Self: When mounting fiberglass bodywork, make the metal brackets and weld in place first then drill the holes in the fiberglass, much easyier to align it properly then.
Fairings and where to put em.
LSR atempt?
Oil tank on the seat might be used, gotta cut the neck off it and use the plug where the level indicator was to fill up.
Any ped that walks in front of me is gonna regret it.
okay slap it on, ugly, nose up to far and the overhangs front and rear don’t match.
Raise the back a bit, better.
Moved it back 3″ much improved, most of the lowers/sides will be chopped off as soon as i figure out how much to chop.
Narrow ain’t it?
Side stand broke off, was only tack welded anyway.
RXS, fitting a different rear wheel.
But first, why is this tire bigger then the engine?
Had to let the air out again to fit the wheel.
the loncin honda 50 (110) is pretty much finished won’t have any light (no coil for it) and the gearing needs changing, it’s very revvy at 30mph
Right, here i have finished filing open the swingarm to accept the larger axle.
then i tired drilling out the holes in the rxs sprocket to fit the gs rear hub, stuff was way too tough, finally did it with a round file, although it’s not very accurate, it will do until i can afford a new custom one to fit.
Used my flat edge thing that i use for putting in engines, and measured thickness of the rim the offset of the edge of the rim to the sprocket face, from the sprocket face to the outer side of the spacer.
found out the center of the rim, and figure that i needed to move the gs rim over by 3mm (100.5mm to 97.5mm) also the sprocket needed moving in by 6mm
Well got that done in no time, just have to machine 3mm off the spacer and that moved the wheel over, the worst problem right here with taking metal off the sprocket carrier is that the sprocket is no longer aligned with the bearing, i may find a 6mm wider bearing to fit in, it also may cause no trouble at all, but the bearings were fairly seized in the first place so i expect some failure anyway.
Next the boring job of painting and hole fixing, i am amazed this thing kept any petrol in it at all.
That took a lot longer to do then to put up these two images. Filling the dents and holes will take even longer 🙁
Back to the rear end, wheel all in now, made up the spacer on the right myself with a file and hacksaw it did not need to be as accurate as the left spacer.
Had to beat the old chain adjuster straight(er) to avoid touching the carrier (despite take 3mm off that as well)
Now with the tank in silver and most of the wheels, might i go with silver all over? was talking the other day and changed my mind again about the black/yellow idea for the wheels think i should do them a dark almost bronze gold now. Dunno.
head stem lengthening
€20 to make chop that and make up a piece to go in and align everything up
Chamfered everything for the welding
Lovely deep penetrated welds, quickly ground the excess back and slapped it on to the bike, i has a solid front end now!
Worked on the back end after that, nothing new done just loads of measuring.
Ted made a valid point today, my poor starlet is probably eleiglible for calssic insurance! this means i might spend some money and actually keep this car.
Bombardier 125, RXS100 paint stripping.
Well the tee-peices are at the local engineering place, will cost me €25 to lenghen the stem, not to bad but once thats done gotta go shorten the forks. hope thats a little easier.
Brother got this for free, it’s massive for a 125, will try and put it in a aprilla rs125 frame. it’s from a go kart, check out the twin chain sprocket on the drive shaft! it had how much power?
quick inspection, shows it to be quite beaten up, but it should run quite fast for a short while.
with the engineering up to some one else i started on the boring bits, paint stripping!
Very manky wheels. they were always like this i never touched them.
What colors? since the tank tail piece and fairing are going to be red, i was thinking all yellow, then maybe black with yellow rim’s and now i think i have decided on black all over with the face of the spokes in yellow.
Left over nitromors was put on the tank. the paint has loads of lacquer on it. very tough.
See the little dark spot in the rust? hole 🙁
That loncin’s gearchange has found a new place to work, we shall see how it goes when i can ride this bike again.
Next Update i’ll shall have a few pics of my latest car! i’ll give you two hints: it’s french and slow, take a guess!
Rxs front disc brake woes, 110cc honda 50,
Well it was still there in the morning.
So i got a start on the seat.
Fit’s lovely.
got distracted, need to cut off a bit of the aluminum side casing if i want to leave that footpeg on.
Had a break, remember that green loncin thing? yep engine barely in, the frame needs a little more angle grinder kisses.
Made better (easier to weld) brackets for the rear of the seat and tided up the front mount too.
mmm i can sit on it now with out holes appearing in my bum
Rear frame will have to be narrowed and pointed up ever so sightly.
loncin 110 engine is in! electric’s to be sorted now.
any one wanna buy some tires and wheels?
Polished it up, fitted new clutch cable, sorted a pair of standard handle bars and a mind blowing amount of other little things, it is now finally advertised.
Whilst trying to fix the front end bodgery of the rxs, this gn125 with it’s 32mm fork and proper pinch bolt upper yoke got broken.
Chrome is not in the best condition, but the big problem is all that length!
Just needs some ape’s, forward controls, replace the rear springs with a bar of steel, or maybe someone to hit me in the ass with a hammer it’s all the same really.
Where i want the front to be. 32mm forks are just the right size but there is just no way i can use em and even if i spent the time and money to shorten them the chrome is a little too shabby.
So back to fixing the 30mm front end (off a gs125 suzuki if you are wanting to know) hmm first things first the stem will need lengthening by approximately 1cm this is possible for me to do and might happen soon, not happening right away as i don’t have any money but soon, then i will have to get oily and take apart the forks to see how and where to shorten them, there are about the right length with the preload spacers taken out but there is sod all suspension travel. if i can sort the travel with out raising the ride height at all, i may just convert the top yoke (which is just a pressed piece of flat steel) into a proper pinch bolt setup and allow the forks to slide up a bit.
Rxs100 rearsets and micron pipe
Spent ages with the file getting the mating surfaces of the rxs downpipe and micron pipe to match this close.
10mins to weld up. Quite happy with it, was a bit difficult to spot weld lying on the ground but once sorted it turned out lovely.
partially stripped bike. Frame needs paint and lots of wire need cutting off.
Left hand foot peg on, same mounting style as the right hand one, but I had to drill a small hole in frame to do it. This time i had enough space to leave on the caps that cover the swing arm bushes, previous rxs had totally worm them out.
Shiny right hand peg, foot peg is solid so that make the kick start useless, happily i like push starting.
Found a 30mm carb to replace the 22mm. it’s perfect. Don’t know if i will go the whole way and fit the massive read cage with a light cylinder porting. Want to actually drive this thing out right speed can wait a while.
Tire has rotted away. with the rear brake banjaxed and wheel in shite condition anyway the whole lot with be replaced with a gs125 wheel to match the front.
Having a problem with the seat situation at the mo can’t decide between rgv125 front or rear seat or a cbr250 (mc22) rear seat. But i did however start up the rxs for a bit and listen to the new pipe. it’s fecking magical sounding.
