Paint and wiring


Priming all done, middle fairing is wet, will be dull for the paint when it’s dry.


Slaped on some triflow paint on the bare metal parts of the frame, then soldered on the tail light connections.

What’s left to do?

sort brake light switch

sort a rear brake (low priority)

fettle the front brake

get brother to paint fairings

find air filter oil

Headlight (want a smaller one)

When all thats done, a test drive will happen, then i shall discover the pegs rear to be more rearset and the forks need to be shorter and the bars are too high and when i kill or get sick of the engine (after the summer) i shall paint the rear wheel and do a better job of the front one and finally sort out a faster engine.

Malossi air filter, sava mc7 tyres, tank leak.


Malossi air filter pod, should do the business. Fix the tank leak again, did not use enough hardener. used araldite.


Fixed niki’s bike, if I find Paul’s brother(he did the wiring) I’ll strangle him.


Started with the gold paint on the wheels, below is a a piece of plastic with the fiat green I want to put on the body work. Can’t see it very well.


After i sprayed on the gold i read the can, 7 DAYS to dry? and it needs lacquer? fuck that. Never again am i painting any of my bike’s or car’s, way to much hassle not enough driving.

Rxs100 taillight sorted, more paint drama. tyres are here!


Nice aprillia rs125, needed little modification to fit.


Painted underside of tank and glued up the new holes i found.


To much rain all together.


Halfords filler primer.


Silver paint that was lying around reacted and a decided against painting it silver, it would only work if he frame was red and that i can’t be arsed doing for a while. so it’s going to be British Racing Green with gold wheels. definitely this time.


Yellow matches the shocks eh?


Tyres and air filter turned up! dopes from sent me the wrong type of rear tire but at least they charged me for the correctly for the cheaper tubeless, instead of the more expensive tubed tyre. i can run it wit a tube it’s not really a problem

What is a problem right now is that i have loads of work to do niki’s vl125 isn’t charging again and loads of the fourstar TGB’s need bits sorted for em. And paperwork needs doing license is out of date soon gotta sort that!

EDIT: got a haircut so i can’t tie my hair up anymore, i forgot i had such 80’s hair!

Tail and headlights. Micra with blown distributor.


Got this off an early xt350, bout the right size and turned upside down matches the angle of the tail piece.


Headlight will be a shallow spot I again dug up in the garden.


will mount on a quick remove bracket to to the side like an endurance racer. will be stuck on high all the time but it allways was anyway, 6 volts not giving much light out anyway.


Bastard to get right. In the end to much on and offing and bending of brackets got it in nearly the right place. Ended up flush with the tail piece instead of sticking out 1cm like I planned.

That light is now scrapped, brother found me a aprillia rs125 tail light that is shallow enough to be mount directly to the tail piece and much neater.

Not been busy over the last week or so, got stuff disconnected from the engine bay of the starlet ready to take the engine out just as the really wet weather hits 🙁

The Girlfriends micra broke down, no spark, only now I find out that these cars have a weak point in the ampilfier which is buried in the distributor. 300 fucking euro for a reconditioned one, it was damn lucky it started right up after i installed it, was tempted to rip it all out and install megasquirt to avoid future problems with the NATS as well.

Starlet off the road,RXS buzzing about the place.


New NCT laws state that i will get 5points on my license and probably a €1500 fine for not having an NCT. So it’s down the garden now, gotta fix it up with no money and either sell it or NCT it.


Why do custom builders have so much trouble with battery box’s?


Needed to get the positive battery wire up front now so, while it was chopped up i whipped out unnecessary wires.


Battery zip-tied in place, loom temporarily taped up.


Shocks have added a little height to the rear, quite happy with that.


So off i went drove it around the drive, can’t wait to get it out on the road.


Note the airbox? it’s just a tube i dug out of the garden, got a 48mm airbox/pod thing on the way along with the sava mc7 tyres. tube thing will be cut down to fit the airbox/pod thing on.

And with those steps forward, one step back is taken, there is another hole in the tank on the right side this time. once that’s glued up paint will be silver on the top fairings and a red frame with (probably) black wheels. What else? tail and head lights and brakes sorting out. Are they really needed?

RXS100 better rear shocks


Got em off ebay, 330mm, meant for a honda monkey bike, just pushed out the steel sleeves in the rubber bush’s and it was perfect.


Just slapped them on and got on with other things so i didn’t get a chance to fiddle, they might be adjustable, certainly you can add more nitrogen and more preload. Need to investigate what those blue knobs on the top of the reservoir are for.

Chopped of 6cm from each side of the bars and bolted on the new (heavy) bar ends, only a test drive will tell if they worked. also fixed up yesterdays welding on the upper fairing brackets, not a lot left to do.

1. Air filter, was gonna fit on a massive gokart airbox but the main frame spine would have to go. probably do it next year along with the 171 engine.

2.Electrics, need a really small 6v battery to hide some where and must cut out loads of redundant wires.

3.Tyres, can’t get tt900’s so will probably go for Michelin pilot sportys.(edit: looks like sava mc7’s are basically tt900’s)

4.Paint, i hate body work, bloody boring.

5.Lights, rear brake and head light.

And thats it, i’d like to move the foot pegs back more and shorten the fork legs but damn it the summer is here thing’s like rear brakes can wait.

RXS100 Sticking on a upper fairing.


Fairing trimmed, maybe some more to do, that front end had to come down it’s way too tall.


What battery? on the right rxs100, front honda c50, behind dt400. all 6v.


It took all morning to do this, much thinking about cables battery and instrumentation went on before I settled on this.


Battery will go in there just in front of the upright bit, still haven’t decided on which one tho.

Mounting fiberglass race bodywork


First bits on.




Or low?


Decided on low then ran out of money and mig wire. and the road outside the house was closed. bumhats.


hour and a half later finally made it back and did this.

Note To Self: When mounting fiberglass bodywork, make the metal brackets and weld in place first then drill the holes in the fiberglass, much easyier to align it properly then.

Fairings and where to put em.


LSR atempt?


Oil tank on the seat might be used, gotta cut the neck off it and use the plug where the level indicator was to fill up.


Any ped that walks in front of me is gonna regret it.


okay slap it on, ugly, nose up to far and the overhangs front and rear don’t match.


Raise the back a bit, better.


Moved it back 3″ much improved, most of the lowers/sides will be chopped off as soon as i figure out how much to chop.


Narrow ain’t it?


Side stand broke off, was only tack welded anyway.


RXS, fitting a different rear wheel.


But first, why is this tire bigger then the engine?


Had to let the air out again to fit the wheel.


the loncin honda 50 (110) is pretty much finished won’t have any light (no coil for it) and the gearing needs changing, it’s very revvy at 30mph


Right, here i have finished filing open the swingarm to accept the larger axle.


then i tired drilling out the holes in the rxs sprocket to fit the gs rear hub, stuff was way too tough, finally did it with a round file, although it’s not very accurate, it will do until i can afford a new custom one to fit.


Used my flat edge thing that i use for putting in engines, and measured thickness of the rim the offset of the edge of the rim to the sprocket face, from the sprocket face to the outer side of the spacer.


found out the center of the rim, and figure that i needed to move the gs rim over by 3mm (100.5mm to 97.5mm) also the sprocket needed moving in by 6mm


Well got that done in no time, just have to machine 3mm off the spacer and that moved the wheel over, the worst problem right here with taking metal off the sprocket carrier is that the sprocket is no longer aligned with the bearing, i may find a 6mm wider bearing to fit in, it also may cause no trouble at all, but the bearings were fairly seized in the first place so i expect some failure anyway.


Next the boring job of painting and hole fixing, i am amazed this thing kept any petrol in it at all.


That took a lot longer to do then to put up these two images. Filling the dents and holes will take even longer 🙁


Back to the rear end, wheel all in now, made up the spacer on the right myself with a file and hacksaw it did not need to be as accurate as the left spacer.


Had to beat the old chain adjuster straight(er) to avoid touching the carrier (despite take 3mm off that as well)


Now with the tank in silver and most of the wheels, might i go with silver all over? was talking the other day and changed my mind again about the black/yellow idea for the wheels think i should do them a dark almost bronze gold now. Dunno.

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